Most people have never tasted a perfectly ripe, fragrant apricot, or felt juice run as they bit into it or wondered at how the tangy flavor even seems to well on the tongue after swallowing.

In its small glass jar, the apricot jam looked smooth and dense — closer to apple butter than glossy preserves. Apricots will always darken during cooking, but this stuff had deepened a few shades ...

8 cups washed, pitted apricots chopped into bite-size pieces (about 4½ pounds ripe or slightly underripe whole fruit) 2 cups granulated sugar ½ cup fresh lemon juice (from 3-6 lemons) ...